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2004 Baumard
Clos du Papillon
3 bottles available
$45.00 | Robert Parker 91
Baumard’s 2004 Savennieres Clos du Papillon smells alluringly and pungently of lemon, white pepper, flowers and herbs, with a distinctively appellation-typical note of oyster shell. Bracing and juicy and positively lilting, yet densely concentrated on the palate, it finishes with amazing intensity of salt, chalk and stone as well as infectious citricity. While it will strike some tasters as austere – and there is certainly a trace of bitterness – it should gain richness over the next 8-12 years.

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2004 Baumard
Savenniéres
3 bottles available
$42.00 | Robert Parker 89
The Baumard 2004 Savennieres introduces a fascinatingly musky, faintly sweaty, animal suggestion to a nose otherwise dominated by lemon, grapefruit and peach. In the mouth, it blossoms to layers of fresh peach and quince, brine and chalk minerality, finishing persistently with musky florality, anise, and subtle bitterness of herbs, alkaline minerality, and fruit skin. This should be fascinating to follow over at least a 6-8 year period. As my descriptors indicate, both the 2003 and 2004 Baumard Savennieres give prominence to the rather reductive youthful side of Chenin, and I cannot help but wonder whether this has been enhanced by their use of screw caps as closures.

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2005 Baumard
Quartz du Charmes
1 bottles available
$95.00 | Robert Parker 92
Given a hard act to follow in the 2004, Baumard’s 2005 Quarts de Chaume displays the most obviously botrytized, white raisin, and shriveled fruit character of any of their recent wines that I tasted. Over-ripe melon and pear, candied grapefruit, marzipan and raisin are accented by brown spices and herbal candy notes. Impressively lush and long, this should evolve interestingly over up to two decades, but will doubtless remain relatively plump and baroque in character.

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